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"speed climbers" controversy

Author	Comment
jsweb	"speed climbers" controversy	Lead	[-]
Posts: 912 (03/06/06 00:25:06) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Tags : None I thought I'd report on this, kind of exciting in a way. Up to 2003, a host of Rainier speed records were reported off the cuff to the press generating incredible publicity and fame for the climbers. A sole Portland speed climber Dan Howitt did lengthy research and actually proved several "records" to be fradulent, most noteworthy that of Chad Kellogg his claims in 98 and 04. Dan is the second person to have a timed Rainier speed climb-done by Climb Max Mountaineering and Ft. Lewis Army Rangers, the first was Jim Whittaker in 1959. Dan's has the current Rainier record with 4:59:05sec from Paradise to the summit 9miles 9011 vertical feet. Whittaker's time in 1959 was 5:20min. The bogus times of Kellogg and Craig Van Hoy etc allege 5hrs-5:30min not oneway to the top, but roundtrip (up and back all the way down). Dr. Richard Hohm of Colorado witnessed Van Hoy miles from the summit at the very time Van Hoy said he was at the summit, namely just shy of 6am.
Unregistered(d)	Gauthier/Kellogg etc involved	#1	[-]
Posts: 0 (03/06/06 00:28:23) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	I thought I'd report on this, kind of exciting in a way. Up to 2003, a host of Rainier speed records were reported off the cuff to the press generating incredible publicity and fame for the climbers. A sole Portland speed climber Dan Howitt did lengthy research and actually proved several "records" to be fradulent, most noteworthy that of Chad Kellogg his claims in 98 and 04. Dan is the second person to have a timed Rainier speed climb-done by Climb Max Mountaineering and Ft. Lewis Army Rangers, the first was Jim Whittaker in 1959. Dan's has the current Rainier record with 4:59:05sec from Paradise to the summit 9miles 9011 vertical feet. Whittaker's time in 1959 was 5:20min. The bogus times of Kellogg and Craig Van Hoy etc allege 5hrs-5:30min not oneway to the top, but roundtrip (up and back all the way down). Dr. Richard Hohm of Colorado witnessed Van Hoy miles from the summit at the very time Van Hoy said he was at the summit, namely just shy of 6am. ---------------------------- Adding-- Mike Gauthier and others were involved in a kind of fraud scheme promoting Kellogg. Lying while well aware they were lying, to promote Kellogg. Gauthier is lead Rainier Ranger and author of a Rainier book. Kellogg/Gauthier have amassed sponsors and publicity from their claims.
Unregistered(d)	Rainer record	#2	[-]
Posts: 0 (03/30/06 23:07:29) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Being one of the people involved in Dan's sub 4 hour record on Rainier I can say holeheardtedly that his fitness and ability is off the scale. By anybodys' measure! Unfortunately naysayers have been having a slanderous field day. And for what? To boost their own egos and their warped sense of comraderie with other fraudulent pretenders. Its sad that their actions continue without justice being served. The way Gautier and Kellogg make out from sponsors is abhorent and its about time the mainstream media take a look at whats really going on out there on the routes.
Unregistered(d)	gautier?	#3	[-]
Posts: 0 (04/02/06 21:18:05) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	"Gautier" lol, doesn't help hide you Mike (Gauthier www.crevasse.com. "Boyar" lol. Must be hard to have been revealed, an otherwise great guy and great Ranger.
Unregistered(d)	ethics at altitude	#4	[-]
Posts: 0 (04/12/06 12:32:05) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Why is it that the mountains must be subject to such violent paroxysms of deceit? The American climbing community is static and lags far behind the progressive attitudes of other countries. And why is that? Penetrating to the core of the matter, various ethical and thoughtful persons have something of an answer. It has to do with tendencies. Childish behavior, jealously, spiteful genes. The altruism that characterises speedclimbing organizations outside the US (except for Bill Wright and Exposure) is worthy of critical examination. The fact that lies are systematically enabled and the mob mentality of negativity-based internet climbing boards allows this action to continue! How can ethical persons expect to present their acheivements in this kind of climate? It's time for fraudulent and disgraceful attacks to desist. Notable athletes deserve due recognition just as fraudulent claims need be exposed in the mainstream.
Unregistered(d)	Ethics . . .	#5	[-]
Posts: 0 (04/13/06 09:14:21) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Great post Carstenz! I agree with your sentiments. Ethics are so important in climbing and particularly so in speedclimbing. Unfortunately there are only a couple of orgazations in the United States capable of displaying the needing expertise. Exposure is certtainly one of them. Wright is another. Both of them are managed by reputable personel, the former in particular. Well, lets look forward to the upcoming speed season. When it's over we can be certain that ethics will be improved, new records broken, and calm shall return to the mountains. Peace.
Unregistered(d)	ethics & the sponsor dollar - cho oyu!	#6	[-]
Posts: 0 (04/13/06 13:19:08) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Hey thanks Sirus. I agree about ethics. Importance is indisputable and many seem to forget that. Not Dan Howitt. His approach has to be seen to be believed. We'll see how it goes on Cho Oyu then on Broad Peak. When those times are in the world will sit up and take notice! The criticism will be crushed and like you say: "peace will retur to the mountains." Have a great day.
Unregistered(d)	OMFG - HOWITT CAN'T STOP	#7	[-]
Posts: 0 (04/14/06 12:45:07) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Interesting, this thread. In a sordid way. So Dan, you're about to do the Himalyas? Can't wait to hear about this. I can almost envision your posts: "my quake-ravaged sirdar, insane from his country's religious oppression, constructs lies and fraud and doubt around my recent 6 hour record on Broad Peak." Then you'll post photos and life will return to normalcy in your deranged little wack-job universe.
aforten	Fraud-controversy	#8	[-]
Posts: 1 (07/28/08 11:48:02) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Forward ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From The Adventure Blog. Story on this Chad Kellogg fraud-controversy. Click on images to zoom-in. http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/9149/advblograinierrecord1da3.jpg http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/9594/advblograinierrecord2zn8.jpg Text from article. -------------------- There is apparently a new "unofficial" speed record on Rainier. I say unofficial, because the climber in question, Justin Merle, a guide on the mountain, and successful Everest and Denali summitteer, went to the summit and back in 4 hours, 49 minutes, and 35 seconds, but had no official timers. This time beats the old record of 4 hours, 59 minutes, 1 second set by Chad Kellogg back in 2004, which was also unofficial, as Kellogg didn't have timers either. Kellogg's "record" has been called into question for some time, thanks to the lack of photographic evidence, lack of witnesses other than friends who were used to cover the timing and questionable entries into the log books. A number of other climbers have expressed concerns over the legitimacy of Kellogg's claims. In fact, Dan Howitt, the official record holder on Rainer, has extended a challenge to Kellogg every year since 2003 to recreate his record speed climb, using official timers. Last I heard, the offer was up to $5000 cash for Kellogg to make another go on Rainier, although each year he simply ignores the offers. He doesn't even bother to respond to decline the offer, even when it's made in a gesture for charity. In this latest article, Kellogg is quoted as saying he now has motivation to go for the record again. I guess the whispers about the legitimacy of his first record and the offers of money to recreate it were not enough motivation. He needed a new "unofficial" record to get the fire back in his belly. By the way, Dan Howitt holds the official record, knocking off the mountain in 5 hours, 59 minutes, and 5 seconds [correction 5hrs 2mins]. In this case, the record was officially timed from the summit and from the start, and independently corroborated, summit photos and all. With all this talk of speed records, doesn't anyone just go for a nice stroll and enjoy the view anymore? ----- Regarding Chad Kellogg- The 1998 Rainier summit register copy. http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/1674/rainier1998summitregistsf0.jpg Obtained from the National Archives. See Chad Kellogg's written information. "9/1/__ Chad Kellogg 4:20 Speed Ascent" His written time is "4:20″ 4 hours 20 minutes. This is for his time from the start (Paradise parking lot 5450ft elevation elevation) to summit. Then, he descended back to 5450ft elevation. This summit register copy was obtained in 2003. First time anyone requested it and first time anyone looked at it. After finishing back at Paradise - Kellog told the Seattle Times http://tinyurl.com/CK1998Rainier and others his time was "3:24″ 3 hours 24 minutes, with, a total time of 5:06 5 hours 6 minutes. Copy of Chad's report of his split times- http://img245.imageshack.us/img245/7600/kellogg1998rainierws2.jpg Last Edited By: aforten 07/28/08 11:51:02. Edited 1 times.

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